Thought I would call on the collective wisdom of the forum members.
I have been suffering from a very serious case of PIA. Now PIA can easily result in financial ruin if it gets out of control, but fortunately I have managed to emerge with all my savings gone, and credit card seriously negative, but not bankrupt. Phew! In the music room now stands a grand piano, a Kawia GS40. PIA (piano acquision syndrome) won. I started my (amateur) music career at the age of 7 on piano, and continued to seriously play the piano for the next 13 years. So that is the background. Recently I started to play again and have been enjoying the experience of getting the skills back. The piano is 25 years old and has some dings, hence I'm not bankrupt. It blew away all the other pianos on the showroom floor, and is blowing my mind now at home. I can hardly believe the sound, my grandfather's 90yo pianola has gone to my stepdaughter, it ain't in the same league. It is like stepping into a Ferarri after driving a Morris Minor for many years.
Now the problem, the dings. The picture below shows the worst ding. There are other smaller dings that someone has stained with black. I would like to make some effort at improving the appearance. The finish I have been informed is a black polyurethane paint, overcoated with clear polyester. It is real thick and rock hard so is difficult to know what to do. Any suggestions.
Peter
Finish repair problem
- peter.coombe
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Finish repair problem
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Peter Coombe - mandolin, mandola and guitar maker
http://www.petercoombe.com
http://www.petercoombe.com
- martintaylor
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Re: Finish repair problem
Hi Peter, looks like a specialist type of job. Check out http://www.ellopianoservice.com/finish_touch_up.html maybe they would give you some info.
Martin Taylor
http://martintaylorguitars.com.au
http://martintaylorguitars.com.au
Re: Finish repair problem
Easy
We repair pianos, it will just be a two pack poly urethane paint, just car bog the surface prime and paint, it's that easy, all other areas sand smooth and paint, when your finished wet sand with 1500 then use a car buffing mop, they are almost a plastic buff, low speed with something like mesquires and your done
Really simple job
We repair pianos, it will just be a two pack poly urethane paint, just car bog the surface prime and paint, it's that easy, all other areas sand smooth and paint, when your finished wet sand with 1500 then use a car buffing mop, they are almost a plastic buff, low speed with something like mesquires and your done
Really simple job
- peter.coombe
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Re: Finish repair problem
Thanks. I was told it is black polyurethane paint sprayed with clear polyester.
Peter
Peter
Peter Coombe - mandolin, mandola and guitar maker
http://www.petercoombe.com
http://www.petercoombe.com
Re: Finish repair problem
It looks like a classic bog and putty job to me Pete. That finish is going to be pretty much impervious to all solvents, so you shouldn't have any trouble with it wanting to boil up on you like some soft cheap coating will. It will require some careful prep if you want the finish you are applying to stick well, as it's not going to melt in like lacquer or shellac will.
I would be treating it exactly like it was a Ferrari that was in to get the dings and chips repaired. I do that every day of the week, so it's old hat.
Hard to tell from the pictures, but if the edge of the finish is very thick then you are best to feather it out so it's not so abrupt. Then apply a fine fill polyester putty if it is going to require levelling with the existing finish.
You can get them at any Automotive Refinish Specialist. In the trade they are referred to Painters Bog in Australia. They require a catalyst hardener and depending on temperature will generally be ready to sand in about 20 minutes. When sanded level you apply a primer surfacer. We use 2 pack ones. They dry overnight unless you have lots of heat. I wouldn't be doing anything like that on a wooden piece. Cars are fine. We get them cooking hot.
Fine sand the primer surfacer back and then you need to decide how much you are going to refinish. Prep the required area and mask off the rest. And away you go.
If that isn't clear, then let me know how I can help.
I would be treating it exactly like it was a Ferrari that was in to get the dings and chips repaired. I do that every day of the week, so it's old hat.
Hard to tell from the pictures, but if the edge of the finish is very thick then you are best to feather it out so it's not so abrupt. Then apply a fine fill polyester putty if it is going to require levelling with the existing finish.
You can get them at any Automotive Refinish Specialist. In the trade they are referred to Painters Bog in Australia. They require a catalyst hardener and depending on temperature will generally be ready to sand in about 20 minutes. When sanded level you apply a primer surfacer. We use 2 pack ones. They dry overnight unless you have lots of heat. I wouldn't be doing anything like that on a wooden piece. Cars are fine. We get them cooking hot.
Fine sand the primer surfacer back and then you need to decide how much you are going to refinish. Prep the required area and mask off the rest. And away you go.
If that isn't clear, then let me know how I can help.
Re: Finish repair problem
And I thought PIA was something else.....................!!!
Tom

Tom
The person who has never made a mistake has never made anything....!
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- Blackwood
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Re: Finish repair problem
But is it the same Ferrari every day?Allen wrote:
I would be treating it exactly like it was a Ferrari that was in to get the dings and chips repaired. I do that every day of the week, so it's old hat.
Ken
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