Bending Brazilian Lacewood sides

[kiwinoz62]

Hi everyone,

Have'nt posted here for awhile and in need of any help offered.

I need help in bending Brazilian Lacewood sides, they have alot of short grain and this has been the end result.

IMG_20141015_184114[1].jpg (117.23 KiB) Viewed 15418 times

IMG_20141015_184136[1].jpg (113.42 KiB) Viewed 15418 times

Tried bending with heating blanket 300deg F, bending iron. Tried bending with water & without.
The wood just seems to collapse once pressure is applied to either upper/lower bout/cut-a-way.
Don't know if temperature was hot enough, but too much water is definitely no good.

If this wood ends up in the "too hard basket" it'll be a shame as it rings like a bell.
(I have some of this rift sawn also and have read somewhere it's easier to bend?)

Any help appreciated.

Cheers Wayne.

[56nortondomy]

You can try soaking the sides in water with fabric softener in it, Wayne. Also make sure you thin the cutaway section more than the rest of the sides, it worked for me with a set of African b/wood which is supposed to be brittle. Maybe worth a try.
Wayne

[Mark McLean]

I tried Super-Soft 2 to achieve a cutaway bend on some figured timbers, and have also used it to make veneers pliable. My experience is only anecdotal, but I think it is helpful. There is not much expense or potential for damage, so I think Super-Soft is worth a try on timber that just doesn't want to co-operate. And, like Wayne said, make sure the area of the tight cutaway bend thinner than the rest. For example, taking it down from 2.5mm to 2.0mm can make a big difference. You can always strengthen it again on the inside after it is bent.
But in the end, some beautiful pieces of timber just won't bend without cracking - which is when you decide to make headplate veneers with them instead.
Mark

[kiwigeo]

Laminated sides?

Forget about the cutaway?

[Craig Bumgarner]

I'll second the SuperSoft II idea. It is the only way I've been able to bend 2mm thick curly maple bindings in the tight cutaway radii without breaking them. The grain of the curly maple I was using ran from one side to the other in less than 10mm. I have since used SuperSoft II on rosewood veneers that tend to split when bent into laminated sides, again with tight cutaways. I have not tried it on solid sides, but it is the best option I can think of.

[Trevor Gore]

(I have some of this rift sawn also and have read somewhere it's easier to bend?)

Often these woods with large rays, when quartered, just facet on the medullary rays rather than smoothly bend and so do better if rift sawn. Works better like that with WA Sheoak, anyway!

I'll second the SuperSoft II idea. It is the only way I've been able to bend 2mm thick curly maple bindings in the tight cutaway radii without breaking them.

Nah, no problem!

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BTW, where can one get SS2 around here?

[kiwinoz62]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Food for thought. . .

You can try soaking the sides in water with fabric softener in it.

I tried Super-Soft 2 to achieve a cutaway bend on some figured timbers.
But in the end, some beautiful pieces of timber just won't bend without cracking - which is when you decide to make headplate veneers with them instead.
Mark

Laminated sides?

All good options guys, maybe a combination of all 3 will work & Martin, I think your'e right.

Forget about the cutaway?

Question : Laminated sides, how is this achieved?
I'm thinking of using Tassie Oak as a backer, any suggestions?


Here's my Plan "B"

(I have some of this rift sawn also and have read somewhere it's easier to bend?)

Often these woods with large rays, when quartered, just facet on the medullary rays rather than smoothly bend and so do better if rift sawn. Works better like that with WA Sheoak, anyway!

[Mark McLean]

BTW, where can one get SS2 around here?

Carbatec sell stuff labelled "Veneer Softener" from a company called Rivergum Timbers. I understand that this is Super-Soft II, rebadged for sale in Australia. This is what I used and was happy with it.
http://www.carbatec.com.au/special-vene ... ner_c20532

But I just noticed that they are charging $39 for a 250ml spray bottle, which is quite a mark-up compared to $US8.10 at this place in the US
http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/ ... ioner.html

Rivergumtimbers.com.au is the website on the label of my stuff - but I can't get past the homepage on that site any more. I wonder if they are still in business? Or maybe there was just a server problem at the time I visited?

Mark

[charangohabsburg]

BTW, where can one get SS2 around here?

Carbatec sell stuff labelled "Veneer Softener" from a company called Rivergum Timbers. I understand that this is Super-Soft II, rebadged for sale in Australia. This is what I used and was happy with it.
http://www.carbatec.com.au/special-vene ... ner_c20532

But I just noticed that they are charging $39 for a 250ml spray bottle, which is quite a mark-up compared to $US8.10 at this place in the US
http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/ ... ioner.html

So what's the problem with ordering it from veneersuplies.com? SS2 is not flammable and they ship to Australia.

[Bob Connor]

Laminated sides tutorial here.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5744

Regards

[Trevor Gore]

Carbatec sell stuff labelled "Veneer Softener" from a company called Rivergum Timbers.

Hmmm. I got some of that stuff, maybe 5 years ago. Tried it a couple of times and reckoned it did nothing. I was getting better results with fabric softener, but I haven't used that, either, for years. All the tricky stuff I hand bend. I have very few breaks. I think all the technique changes I've done add up to just using less or no water and none on the outside of the bend.

[kiwigeo]

There are one or two tonewood dealers selling wood that's already "bent".....